Building a project from a set of plans can be a great experience. In theory, the plans have all the details worked out. But unless you work flawlessly and your stock doesn’t expand or contract, there will likely be a few differences due to small deviations or other, unpredictable changes. So beyond the standard advice like, “measure twice, cut once,” here are a few more tips you can use while building a project from a plan. They’re sure to help you successfully complete your projects and build your woodworking skills. They’re also helpful even if the plan is your own.
GOOD HABITS
Success begins by developing good woodworking habits. Making these steps part of your routine can save both time and money.
ACCURATE TOOLS.
The best results are only possible if the tools are accurate. That’s why I try to always use the same tape measure for the entire project. Small differences between tapes can lead to errors. Another thing to check is whether your squares are actually square (second photo above). Few things can cause as many hard-to-fix problems as an out-of-square project part. Finally, using a steel rule to set up saw blades and router bits will improve accuracy. The photo above shows you how.
Check your table saw, jointer, and other tools to make sure they’re running true. With the fences squared and locked in, you can cut with confidence.
GETTING STARTED
After you’ve taken care of these common shop tasks, you’re ready to dig into the plans. Here again, there’s a logical flow for each phase of the project.
I like to photocopy the plan to keep it at hand while I work. I make notes on the copy and keep the original unmarked in case I need to revise it later.
READ EVERYTHING FIRST. Studying the entire plan before you begin can help you develop a strategy. This is a great time to make a few notes. Your goal here should be to understand the work flow and the details of each operation. Also, be sure to understand how to do each task. If you’re going to change the plan, now is the time to work out the details of how changes impact the project.
INVENTORY. The next step is to make sure you have the tools (especially things like router bits) you need before you get started. This saves time.
HARDWARE. I also make sure to have the hardware on hand before I begin. Sometimes the hardware specified in the plan has been discontinued or sold out, making it necessary to find an alternative. Another thing to consider is that some specialty hardware might vary in size from the plan.
CUSTOMER SERVICE. Call or email the publisher of the plans before you begin. You can usually find the contact information at the beginning of the book or magazine. Asking about any updates and corrections up front can save you some grief down the road.
SELECT & PREPARE THE STOCK
At this point, you’re ready to make a trip to the lumberyard. Once again, there are a few guidelines to help you out.
SELECTION. Look for straight stock (no twist) if possible. There’s no need to fight twisted, bent, or crooked lumber. Also match the pieces for similar color.
EXTRA STOCK. Buying 20% extra stock for your projects may be the best advice I can give. This allows you to pick and choose the grain and color for every part and to work around any knots or other defects in the wood.
MILL THE STOCK. When you get the lumber home, let it sit for a few days to acclimate to your shop. Then joint and plane it to the dimensions required for the project. The photos above show the correct sequence.
DON’T GET AHEAD OF YOURSELF. Even though the plan has dimensions for every part, it’s not a good idea to cut all the parts to final size up front. A few small deviations in one section can mean that all the parts you make later will need to be adjusted.
That’s why it pays to measure as you build (photo above). In most projects, the fit is more important than the exact measurement (within reason). For instance, if you cut your face frame pieces to 1 7⁄16" wide instead of 1 1⁄2", you can simply adjust the size of the drawer or door to accommodate the change.
SOME EXCEPTIONS. There are a few exceptions to this rule. For instance, don’t be afraid to group similar operations to avoid extra blade changes or tool setups. A good example is ripping all the pieces to final width using the same fence setting for consistency.
BUILDING THE PROJECT
After you’ve prepared your tools and milled the stock, you’re ready to get under way on sizing the parts for your project. This is where it pays to double check each operation and measurement.
MISTAKES. No matter how careful you are however, chances are a mistake or two will pop up from time to time. Sometimes you can cover your tracks, but sometimes only a new part will save the day.
Don’t hesitate to make a new piece. This is why you milled extra stock. Many projects require lots of time and effort to build. You’ll never regret going back and fixing a mistake now rather than living with it. (And even if you’re the only one who notices, it can drive you crazy.) You can often use the “mistaken” piece to make a smaller part somewhere else.
PRACTICE. Of course, avoiding mistakes is still the best strategy. One way to do this when you try a new technique is to run through the entire procedure using an inexpensive test piece. For instance, if you’ve never shaped a cabriole leg, try your first one using a poplar blank (photo above). This way, if you make a mistake, you don’t have to worry about replacing the expensive piece of cherry that matches the rest of your project perfectly.
Sometimes even inexpensive “two-by” lumber can be used, but avoid this for most joinery or carving operations. It simply machines too differently than hardwoods. That’s why a handy supply of poplar is a great addition to the shop.
KNOW YOUR JIGS. Practice is great, but in woodworking, nothing beats a reliable jig. Jigs allow you to repeat operations by guiding a tool or the workpiece. They can be shop-made or commercially available, but they all take a certain degree of familiarity to work properly. It’s up to you to understand how to build and use all of the jigs needed for a project.
There are many different ways and a variety of jigs to do any operation. The right way is the one you’re comfortable with and gets consistent results. But I always keep some MDF in the shop in case I need to build a last-minute jig. The same is true for 1⁄4" hardboard. It makes great templates.
TRUST YOUR INSTINCT. Sometimes, in spite of all your preparation, you’re confronted by a situation that just doesn’t “feel right.” When that happens, there’s a good chance that your instinct is correct. If any technique or particular cut makes you feel a little shaky, take a break to think things through. The photos below show one example and an easy fix.
Read over the plan again, and double check any drawings and photos. Take a minute; then set up again. Make a dry run and look for the unsafe points in the operation. Make sure you have push blocks, featherboards, or any other safety gear necessary for the operation. Are you using the proper blade or bit? Are you getting tired and ready to stop for the day?
Sometimes, even a safe cut can be intimidating if you’ve never done it before. But no matter what, never ignore the little voice in your head. It’s usually signaling a reliable warning.
HELP. If you get really stuck, don’t be afraid to ask for help. Ask a fellow woodworker if you can’t figure something out. Chances are there’s a woodworking store or club in your area that can offer advice, too.
MORE NOTES. I like to use Post-it notes to help keep track of where I am in the process of building a project. This is especially helpful when you don’t get into the shop every day. The notes serve as a reminder of what’s next on the “to do” list. You can also use them to label project parts so you won’t get them confused during the building process.
MAKING CHANGES. Another situation that may arise, is the need to modify a plan. It’s not unusual to want to change the size or design of a piece of furniture to suit your particular surroundings.
If you modify a design, make sure you understand all the implications and adjustments you’ll need. The law of unintended consequences can cause some frustrating mistakes unless you’re very careful. It’s often here where errors are made (for example, forgetting to make the shelves longer after you widened the case).
I find it helpful to make a detailed sketch of the proposed changes, including all dimensions. If you use design software, like Google SketchUp , then you have the perfect tool for planning and adjusting all the pieces. Once you’ve figured it out, make a note so you won’t forget, like the one shown in the right photo.
FINISH: DECIDE EARLY. One of the most common places that woodworkers run into problems is the finishing process. It’s true that finishing can be a challenge, but like every other aspect of building a project, it all comes down to good planning and execution. And there are a few things you can do to make it easier on yourself.
First, make your finishing decisions early on in the planning process. Consider what might be the best finish for a particular project. Do you need stain or just a clear finish? Do you need to fill the grain for a smooth finish? Would dye help bring out the figure? Will you apply it by hand or spray? These are just a few of the decisions you’ll need to make before you finish the project.
This is another opportunity to use some of that extra stock. Because it’s a good color and grain match, you can experiment to create the perfect look.
Next, it’s important to have plenty of supplies on hand before you begin. This includes brushes, solvents, and cleaning supplies.
Finally, you’ll want to have a good area to finish. Somewhere away from the dust of the shop is best. But if that’s not possible, then devote a few days to nothing but finishing. Keeping the dust out of the air will make a big difference in the end result. Often, finishing parts before assembly allows you do to a better job (box below).
Following these guidelines should give you a leg up on building from a plan. Now it’s just a matter of finding a project you like and giving it a try.
Time Saver: Prefinishing Project Parts
Finishing a project after it’s assembled can be difficult and time-consuming. It’s not too hard to brush or spray on the finish, but it can be a bear to keep the coat even and free of runs or drips. That’s why I prefinish my project parts whenever possible.
Prefinishing allows you to apply a finish to the individual pieces before assembly. This means there are no nooks and crannies to reach into as you apply and wipe off stain or finish. You can easily see every surface of each piece and make sure you’re getting the results you want.
The key is to keep finish off of or out of parts the will be glued together. The photo at right shows how painter’s tape and foam insulation can be used to mask areas where you don’t want finish.
You can also see an easy system for hanging the parts to dry. All you need to do is attach a hook in an inconspicuous place on each piece and then string a line to hang them on. I tie a knot about every 6" to provide a loop to hang the pieces. This prevents them from sliding around on the line. This system works great for many kinds of woodworking projects.
