When I build a big project, like an entertainment center or a bed, one of my first concerns is the cost of lumber. The board feet can really stack up on a project like that and if you use high-quality hardwood like cherry or walnut, the cost will add up too. One way to save some money and still have a quality finished piece is to use a less-expensive wood like poplar. Poplar can be almost half the price of other premium hardwoods. It’s stable and it machines well, making it easy to work with in the shop. Plus, the species has a fine, even grain with virtually no knots.
There’s a downside to poplar, though. It can have heavy streaks and color variations that appear dark green to pale yellow, so most woodworkers have banished it to the unseen parts of projects, like drawer sides or web frames. But the wood can be painted or stained with great results. You can see examples of both in the photos here.
PAINT. The old saying “Paint covers a multitude of sins,” was probably spoken first about poplar. This wood takes paint (oil-based or latex) extremely well. While paint looks good on poplar, you can make it look like more expensive, fine-grained woods. It just takes a particular type of stain.
OIL STAIN. Oil-based stains are very popular for most hardwoods because they help highlight the figure. But poplar can absorb stain inconsistently. This means you could end up with a project that looks blotchy, like the sample you see at the bottom of the opposite page.
CONDITIONER. If you prefer to work with oil stain, there is a solution to the blotchiness. You can apply a wood conditioner to the bare wood before you apply the stain. Most conditioners are a thinned varnish that seals the wood grain and gives you a more consistent surface on which to apply the stain. But there’s a trade off in the process. As you can see in the photo on the opposite page, the conditioned wood is a lot lighter in color than the other finished surfaces. The process of sealing the wood also keeps the stain from penetrating. That’s why I like to use gel stain.
GEL STAINS. Gel stains are exactly what the name implies: Mineral spirits and resin mixed with colorant to produce a thick gel. If you’ve never used gel stain before, you’ll be surprised when you open the can. It’s about the consistency of mayonnaise (photo below). Although it’s oil based, a thickener in the stain gives it body. The resin keeps the color on the surface of the wood, but it’s translucent. You’ll see the wood grain, but not the original color of the wood.
Once you apply the gel, you’ll immediately see the intensity of the color. It only takes one coat to get a rich, deep color on poplar. I like to use red gel stain for a project that looks like it’s built from cherry without the expense of the finer wood. Dark brown stain works great to create the look of walnut. As with any stain, there is a wide selection of colors, so varied looks are easy to achieve.
To apply gel stain, I use a clean cloth with a healthy amount of stain on it. As you apply the stain, you may notice streaks. These can be removed with a clean cloth while the stain is still wet. Apply the stain with a circular motion for maximum coverage. Then wipe with the grain to remove the excess stain and produce an even color. After the stain dries (about 8 hours) you can add your favorite topcoat. You can apply a second coat of stain before the topcoat for a richer look. But I think you’ll find that one coat of gel stain is all it takes to turn an ugly-duckling piece of hardwood into a striking, finished project.
