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You only need three blades to get smooth, tearout-free cuts from your table saw.
To get the most out of your table saw you need to use the right blades. The Freud, Amana, and Forrest blades shown in the article on page 8 can be found at several of the online retailers shown below.
Every power tool woodworker should have these five hand tools to get top-notch results.
Hand tools can be a great help to all your woodworking projects. For the article on page 10, I used a Lie-Nielsen 9 1?2 block plane and medium shoulder plane. The card scrapers, ryoba saw, and chisels are available through Rockler, Lee Valley or other online woodworking sites.
With a simple jig and a set of templates, you can make a wide range of decorative joints.
If you're looking for some unique joinery options, the Fast Joint Precision Joinery System might be just what you're looking for. Take a look at the article on page 12 to see what it can do. It's available through MLCS.
Perfect-fitting half-blind dovetails are a snap when you follow these handy tips and tricks.
The casual look of this small bench comes from its graceful curves and sculpted seat. To ensure it lasts for years to come, it's built with traditional mortise and tenon joinery.
I used a bowl & tray router bit to shape the bench seats. You can find this bit at Woodcraft (825834) or similar bits at several other online retailers. An oil finish really brings out the beauty and depth of the wood (I used General Finishes' Seal-a-Cell). Then I sprayed two coats of lacquer.
Stained glass panels set in solid-wood frames give this lamp an unbeatable look. The best part is that creating the stained glass panels is surprisingly simple to do.
Building the lamp on page 22 involves more than just woodworking. The good news is, the techniques for cutting and assembling stained glass aren't difficult. On top of that, there are a couple of online retailers listed below that can supply everything you'll need to build the lamp.
For all the glass and associated supplies, you can go to Glass Crafters. The two types of glass are: Kokomo Opal Orange (K4-254D) and Spectrum Light Orange, White Wispy (S5-379.1). In addition to the glass, you'll need solid-core solder (C6040), flux (508), a roll of copper foil (4014), and black patina (530). Another supplier, Warner Stained Glass carries all the materials you need.
For the electrical parts, I turned to MyLampParts.com. The list of parts is pretty long, but not too expensive: 3-wire socket (SL19053LEV), porcelain base socket (SL19123P), 35W candelabra bulb (SL03224), 11/16" brass neck (SL01117), brass coupling (SL00816), 3" brass nipple (SL04386), 4" brass nipple (SL04388), 1/8" brass nut (SL02251), 18 ga. electrical cord (SL19715), harp (SL15207), and the harp bottoms (SL20640). The shade (ESK9554) came from EveryLampShade.com. Another source for the shade is Euro Style Ligting, part number EUK9552.
To finish the lamp, I used Varathane Mission Oak stain. Then, I wiped on a coat of General Finishes' Seal-a-Cell and followed up with two coats of sprayed lacquer.
This stylish armoire has a lot going for it. First, with the two-tone finish and simple details, it looks great. Second, there’s loads of storage. And finally, the construction is quick and easy.
The armoire featured on page 30 requires some hardware. I found the hinges (00H51.33), the door pulls (01A23.75), and the drawer pulls (01A23.73) all at Lee Valley. I ordered the shelf support pins (22773), magnets (26534), and the drawer stem bumpers (28373) from Rockler.
The base and top of the armoire were painted black. The rest of the unit was stained with three parts Zar stain and one part Woodkote Jel’d Stain (both cherry). I sprayed the whole piece with lacquer.
Here's what you need to know to get the best results from any set of project plans.
Laying down a smooth, even finish starts with the right tool. Here’s what we use.
Face frames are the key to rock-solid cabinet construction that looks great.
